Sushi Heng @ Asia Cafe, Subang

Not technically roadside fare, but a stall at the ever-popular college student hangout, Asia Cafe. Sushi Heng is owned and operated by Nicholas Heng, whose years of experience in hotel cuisine shows in his creations. Heng also runs the teppanyaki stall nearby, though it is closed for the moment.

The stall features bar-style seating, so diners can watch their food being prepared. While they’re waiting, they can swap stories with the chef, whose personality is as much of a draw as his food. Be forewarned – conversation will tend towards the raucous and colorful.

The menu features an amazing amount of variety, considering it is a one-man operation. There are some pleasant surprises, such as the Japanese-style yee sang – which is available all year round, not just during Chinese New Year. Adventurous diners can elect to sample individually prepared rolls to get the most out of the large menu. These are generally priced at RM4 per dish. Those who want to fill up are advised to try the chiraishi don, an RM20 rice bowl that comes with just about everything.

Heng has been known to add personal touches to his dishes for favored customers; on one occasion, our sushi came with an unexpected cili padi center. The lucky will receive cuts of premium salmon belly, which – cliche as it sounds – can only be described by “melts-in-your-mouth”.

Sushi Heng is open from 6pm to 2am nightly.

Ninja Jones @ Northpoint, Midvalley

This recently-opened gem caters to both the lunch break warrior and the curiousity-seeker. Tucked away in a corner of Megamall City, it serves Japanese food with a twist – or rather, with ninjas. Waiters wear the black, full-body garment made infamous by a thousand late-night martial arts movies, down to the tight wrap-top that leaves only the eyes exposed. And you thought the dresscode at your office was harsh!

Ninja Jones offers the usual range of sushis, sashimis and bentos, typical of Japanese cuisine, though there are elements of fusion in their presentation. The California Maki, for example, comes on a flatbed of leaves, drizzled with a variety of mild mustard. The effect is an experience that appeals to one’s sense of aesthetics as well as the palette.

In terms of liquid refreshment, the plum wine, served simply in its original Japanese packaging, is recommended. Its slightly sweet, very fruity aftertaste complements the majority of Jones’ varied menu, without undue intoxication.

Price ranges are higher than the fare found at Genki Sushi, but thankfully they do not ascend to Zen-like levels, making the Nipponese eatery a viable option for the budget-conscious. It remains to be seen, however, whether Jones’ ninjas will be able to fight off the competition of the dozens of similar, though less flashy efforts in the niche.

Many thanks to Douglas for pointing me towards NJ.